8.18.2015

Pattern M, Stylish Dress Book by Yoshiko Tsukiori

An airy, breezy sweet summer dress has been made.
I've been wanting to try more dresses from Yoshiko Tsukiori's 'Stylish Dress Book Wear With Freedom' book... 
...and chose Pattern M because I thought it'd make a fun, cool, easy-to-wear summer dress for those 97 degree days.
The v-neck is low, hem is long and 'sleeves' are little ruffly things....but this dress has so much potential!
Purchased 2 1/2 yards of 100% cotton pale blue gingham with raised little white daisies, 63" wide at Joann for 50% off $14.99/yard.  Nothing, not even scraps are left over.  This dress cost $18.75 to make.  I did not add the pre-planned tatting after all. 
Many modifications were needed to make this dress wearable for me.  I traced a size 12 adding 3/8" seam allowances.  Some seams are french seams, and some seams are simply serged.  Raised the neckline @1" and redrew the neckline angle.  This dress is designed to be made with scalloped edged fabric, and as mine was not, I had to consider the neckline finish.  Fresh off making all the Ottobre Sculpture no. 10 tops with baby hems.... jumped right in and sewed baby hems on this neckline by simply turning in a mere 1/4" seam, machine stitch, then turn in again a 1/4" seam and machine stitch.  There may be a little wobble in the way the neckline lays, but not much.  Also added a 1 1/2" band around the front and back between the bodice and the skirt.  The gathers were hitting me mid-bust and wasn't sure how that would 'wear' for me, so thought adding the band would work better.  Cut the band on the bias for a little interest.  Also cut and sewed a curved hem, not straight as per pattern.  Cut 2" off length and still hemmed up 2".  Added in-seam pockets.  I *heart* pockets!  :)
You can see the neckline finish better in this photo below, as well as the band I added.
Since I seemed to be on an Ottobre roll, decided to finish the back neckline also the same as the Sculpture No. 10 tops. Cut 1" bias binding for the back neckline.  Thought I'd try to show you here a little of how Ottobre has you attach the back neckline binding.  You first finish the front neckline, then sew the back neckline binding, right sides together 1/4" seam allowance #1, below.  Then you stitch the shoulder seams, being careful not to catch, or stitch on the neckline binding #2, below.  Then you fold over the (right-side) neckline binding edge to the front shoulder seam, and stitch on that seamline #3, below.... then turn it right side out and top-stitch down..... and voila'.... the seam is enclosed with little bulk.
Like this.
Pretty proud of my neckline binding stitching here too.  Nice and even.  This cotton was a dream to work with compared to the crepe de chine, and silky prints I've been working with recently.
I dealt with the ruffly 'sleeve' a little like it looked like Carolyn did..... by treating it like a cap sleeve, only mine needed a little dart at the shoulder seam to give it more roundness.  You can see Carolyn's pretty dress here and I found examples made by other women here, here and here.
It was strange outside lighting today and my photos are a little washed out, but you can see how the sleeve fits me in the photo below.  I like this sleeve on me.  It's a little more shoulder coverage than sleeveless, and that's a good thing.
Beware, this dress is voluminous!  And I mean voluminous!!!!!  My cotton probably was a little stiffer than this pattern needs.... but oh my goodness.  After attaching the skirt to the bodice, I knew I needed some sort of tie-belt or re-make the entire skirt.... particularly the back.  Since it is already mid-August and the wearable time for this dress is realistically only a few more weeks, decided to go the quick route and add an in-seam belt that ties in the back.  Below, is where I'm trying to decide what type of belt to make..... as wide as the bodice band I added, or thin and skinny.
The thin, skinny belt was a good choice, even though you can hardly see it here!  Tames the back....
...and below you can get an idea of how blowy and breezy it is, even with the belt.  Still unsure about this silhouette on me.
This dress completes my Make a Garment a Month July 2015 plans.
Overall I like my new dress, but not sure if I will make it again.  This is a completely different style for me than I've ever worn, so that has taken a little getting used to.  The shoes helped..... a lot.  At first I was afraid it looked nightgown-ish.... but the red wedge shoes really 'make' the outfit.... to me.  Also wondering if I can shorten it a little more and that'd help?
And I was lucky to have my sweet daughter, Melissa, spend an afternoon at Lake Jocassee with me this past week.  She has been busy all summer with college classes and begins her senior year tomorrow, so I only had her to myself for a few days.  So glad she still likes to spend a little time with her mother enjoying the great outdoors!
This dress has been planned since June.  Temps have consistently been 97 degrees since mid-May..... through June AND July, which is most unusual for this area of South Carolina.  August is usually our 97 degree month.  The dress is done..... our temps have hovered around 82 degrees since the first of August..... every.... day..... with today raining and cool.  NOT the weather I'd made this dress for.  *sigh*   At least it will be ready to wear and (feel like new!) for NEXT summer.  :)

17 comments:

  1. Your explanation of the bias binding sewing for the back neckline is most intriguing! I can't quite visualise it, but I think it's one of those where you follow the steps and voila!
    It's an airy summer dress and your fabric is just perfect for it. The daisy and gingham has such a pretty vintage look to it. I hope there's still a bit of summer left for you to wear this dress.
    Ah your daughter is a lovely girl to spend a few treasured days with you before the start of school. Time flies doesn't it?

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    1. One of the reasons I wrote this post and took the photos about the back neckline.... is so I'd remember it better! :) This is now the fourth time I've used that technique, and every.single.time I've had to read and re-read the instructions and re-learn it all over again. It is a little hard to wrap one's brain around.... but once it's done, it seems oh-so-simple. Time does fly and it really seems to zoom now! Thank you so much Erin!

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  2. I like this silhouette on you! Really looks a little strange und wide without the belt, but with the belt I think it is very flattering! Thanks for giving such an informative report on the construction process, I really enjoyed reading it! I also like the fabric and I don't think the dress looks nightgownish at all! Great job. And if making the dress helped the weather to become cooler, that's great too ;-)

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  3. I like this silhouette on you! Really looks a little strange und wide without the belt, but with the belt I think it is very flattering! Thanks for giving such an informative report on the construction process, I really enjoyed reading it! I also like the fabric and I don't think the dress looks nightgownish at all! Great job. And if making the dress helped the weather to become cooler, that's great too ;-)

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    1. Thank you so much for your input Katharina! You make such cute dresses, I value your opinion. And Aha! You've made a great point..... for if my dress changed the weather... that is great!!!! At least it feels like you can breathe when you go outside now. :)

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  4. I was thinking how much this style suits you, and how well you have modified it from the probably looser version in the Stylish Dress book. I think it probably helps that you are tall and the proportions are good on you. The shoes are terrific too. But really, don't worry about this being a little over full, it looks really nice and in 90+ deg weather it must be really comfortable to wear too. Not Average, but Awesome! TS

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    1. Thank you ever so much Trish!!! You have really made my day! :)

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  5. Hello, Lovely Lisa! The dress looks so comfy on you! I love it! We have experienced the very same temps this summer, and now rain! But we'll probably have more hot days through September that you can wear the dress. I love the fabric you chose! And the shoes make it pop! Great job! Have a great week! Blessings from Bama!

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    1. You are oh-so-right in that it is the most comfy dress I think I've ever owned! It feels great on. You are so sweet Felecia! Thank you so much and blessings back to you!! :)

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  6. I love this silhouette for you, Lisa! It looks like an amazingly breezy and lovely dress for this hot weather! You have saved the silhouette with the little belt and I think you were right not to put the tatting. This will be nice for another project! Lovely work at the neckline!
    We, too, have had very hot days but now it has cooled down. :)

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    1. With all the lovely dresses you make, I really appreciate what you think. Thank you ever so much SaSa! Glad you've had some relief from the hot weather too. :)

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  7. Hi Lisa,
    this dress is just so pretty! And the fabric (I remember it from one of your other posts) is really beautiful for a summer dress. I think you've adapted the pattern very well - you'd always have to wear something beneath the deep V-neck otherwise, not quite the purpose of a light summer dress!
    I hope you'll have some opportunity to wear it this year.

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  8. That is a lovely dress. Just lovely. And it looks so good on you! Could hardly be a better style for the hot, hot weather. I think you should make another one (in perhaps a colorful, lively print?) so you'll have two of such a comfortable style . . . and no one will think you're wearing the same dress twice!

    How I envy you gals that are tall. If I tried to wear that style, I'd look like a pup tent with feet.

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    1. You've got me thinking, maybe I will make another. With all the kind words of encouragement from everyone today, including you, maybe it doesn't look too 'young' for me..... or too 'big' on me after all. More colorful is a good idea too! Thank you Mama Pea! And yes..... I think this would be a hard dress to wear if one was not so tall, unless there was a lot of pattern modification. :)

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  9. What a sweet and feminine dress Lisa - it looks lovely on you! I really love the daisy fabric you chose.

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Thank you for taking the time to leave a note.~Lisa

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