Pulling together a mini-capsule wardrobe piece by piece..... a faux wrap top will be a great addition to the collection. Burda 9/2018 #121 Draped Jersey Shirt
filled that need well.
Having made Ottobre Faux Wrap Dress
earlier this summer, photo below... and dealing with a faux wrap that does not stay closed well..... I was super worried about the wearability of this top. If you notice in the photo below, Ottobre's 'wrap' ends off-center anchored in the front skirt piece... whereas the Burda top's 'wrap' ends in the side seams... so that gave me hope. I do absolutely adore the Ottobre dress and have enjoyed wearing it.... with a cami underneath!
There are 2 different views Burda shows of this cute top.... one here
, and the second here
. When I first received my September issue, this cute top immediately caught my eye but feeling so wary about the gaping issue, was hesitant to make it. In Burda's photo
below left, you can see how the faux wrap ends in the side seam.... but under the waistline.... more in the hip area.... and that concerned me.... until I recently came across Hila from Saturday Night Stitch's YouTube video version of this top
where she shows her first version that looked like she may have moved the 'wrap' up higher... to hit more under the bust at/above the waistline and really liked it. (Her 2nd version is a lower hitting 'wrap') She also spoke of the tightness at the hips and tightness in the arms. She's so little and in such great shape, she didn't need to modify any of that.... but I knew I would need to so graded from a size 36 bust/waist to a size 38 hips. I did not add anything to the arm width because my fabric has a wonderful 4-way stretch but did take Hila's thoughts into consideration and only serged that seam at @1/4" seam allowance. All my other seams are a 3/8" seam allowance stitched on the sewing machine using a walking foot, then run through the serger to 'neaten edges of allowances together'. Oh, and I shortened the sleeves to 3/4 length and shortened the length of the top by 2". But the biggest modification I did was to raise the wrap insertion in the side seams to at/above waist.... just under the bustline. It wasn't hard to figure out and REALLY like the security it affords. I've worn this top for the last 2 days to check out the modesty factor and have to say it's fantastic. No problems at all. Stays nice and shut without feeling restrictive.
Isn't this cut-on collar a delightful touch. It will look terrific under jackets and cardis yet doesn't feel overwhelming around the neck. Having just finished the cut-on collar construction of the Burda fuzzy fleece jacket recently, the instruction of cutting into the seam at neckline and shoulder seam didn't seem so odd. Need to blog that jacket soon...... bad blogger!!
Burda's 9/2018 #121 Faux Wrap Top
is a fairly simple pattern to make.... once one gets over the hurdle of step #1. To cut into one side of the inner wrap to reduce bulk at the seam line. I agonized over this step because as we all know.... once your fabric is cut, it is cut. But remembering to trust in the pattern, as I seem to have to remind myself with each make!, the fretting stopped and the cutting began and step #1 was complete, then the next, then the next.... until the top came together and all made sense. A couple of things I did do different than the instruction..... I did not gather to ease the sleeve caps. Because of the stretch of my knit, and using lots and lots of pins, (and pinning carefully and accurately at sleeve cap points) I s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-d the armscye fabric to meet the sleeve caps and was super pleased at how that turned out. I am lousy at setting in sleeves using gathering stitches..... so this was a great alternative and am pleased with the result. Hems were zigzagged. No twin needle.
Fabric was purchased at my only-open-once-a-month fabric textile outlet All About Fabrics and it is absolutely divine. Feels silky against the skin with the most lovely drape. Here I am wearing it with a contrasting skirt to (hopefully!) show the top better.
And don't care one hoot about the pooling in the back because look at that awesome fabric pattern matching!! Yes!!!!! When purchasing the fabric I thought it had a generic non-repeat pattern..... but nooooooo it was a most definite eye-catching pattern in this fabric that was very prominent when trying to cut everything out. Great care was taken in placing all pieces..... though my hair covers a bit of the back, you can still see the image is centered. And notice how the back of the arms even match! I am so happy!! If you scroll back up and look closer at the front photos, you'll see how they are symmetrical too. :) This top will gets lots of wear!!
This top completes a make for the 2018 Burda Challenge
....... and a make for Sarah Liz's Make a Garment a Month
So to recap the makings of this mini capsule wardrobe to-date.....
Mini capsule wardrobe item #1 M5890 top
Mini capsule wardrobe item #2 NewLook 6164 Skirt
Mini capsule wardrobe item #3
I'll try to finish the new fuzzy fleece Burda jacket to share details soon. Been going back and forth on closures for it, otherwise it is complete. Tried to sew a sample buttonhole the other day and this fluffy fleece is way too thick. Then experimented with snap fasteners that use a pliers kit and again, afraid this double layer of fluff is just too thick. Don't want to ruin this cute jacket right at the end, so think I'll just succumb to sew-on snaps.
It's continuing to be hot and humid here with temps consistently running 10 degrees F above normal. I am so ready for Fall. Not necessarily winter..... but Fall would be nice.
Happy Sewing All! :)
What a lovely mini wardrobe you have created. And I do like how you altered this top. I have no idea why wrap tops and dresses have to be so low as so many seem to be. And you are right, this fabric is stunning. It must be great fun saving up to go to your once in a month fabric store.ReplyDelete
Thank you so much for your lovely comment! There is always such delightful anticipation as the once-a-month-date approaches and I only wish I had a sewing friend like you to go with me!! :)Delete
I think I made a very similar looking Burda cardigan like 5 years ago and I loved it :) I like your version a lot and I bet it will get lots of wears. The cardigan looks like it is way too tight at the hips on the Burda picture even, so maybe that is a design feature ;) However I like the fit of your cardigan better :)ReplyDelete
Great observation!!! I wonder if this is an update/re-make of the pattern you used?! Already wearing mine almost daily and am wondering if maybe a second needs to be made. Thank you so much for your sweet comment Katharina!! :)Delete
Your attention to detail with the pattern matching really pays off in this top.ReplyDelete
Thank you so much!! Sometimes it's paying attention to things like this that can really enhance the enjoyment of a garment. :)Delete
Ooh, I started to write my comment and something weird happened and I got a notification saying thank you for leaving a not to Lisa...not sure what I did???ReplyDelete
What I wanted to say was what a beautiful fit yout top is and I'm most impressed by the pattern matching.
Oooooo no!!! Hope Google isn't doing weird things with comments now!! This is the only one that came through and so glad you wrote another. What a sweet compliment and you've made my day Diane!!! :)Delete
That‘s such a great top, Lisa! I can see that the collar is just perfect for the coming lower temperatures and it looks lovely, too. The shorter lengh looks much jounger and raising the wrap was clever! Can‘t wait seeing your little jacket.ReplyDelete
Thank you so much sweet SaSa for your kind comment! :)Delete
Gorgeous top Lisa. I love the print and well done on pattern matching. Thank you for writing all the progress, I might need to raise the wrap, make full arm and hip adjustments (as I want to make this top one day) 😍😍ReplyDelete
I like yours so much more than the Burda version! This is going to be a highly functional addition to your capsule wardrobe, well done Lisa!ReplyDelete