Showing posts with label Ottobre Design Woman 02/2016. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ottobre Design Woman 02/2016. Show all posts


Peacock Dress | Ottobre 02/2016 no. 7 cross front dress

Ready for the hot 'summertime' in the colors of a Peacock.
Ottobre Design Woman 02/2016 no. 7 Cross-front Jersey Dress pattern is a sleeveless, faux wrap mini-dress that has the most comfortable wearability.  Fit is perfectly perfect as Ottobre Design Woman's patterns usually provide for me, but even this one seems exceptional.  Confession time though... the entire process of making this dress filled me with dread, to the point of almost not completing.  Dread because of the concern this dress would be too form-fitting and too body-hugging to be wearable.  It was quite an awful feeling of doom.... but kept telling myself to believe in the pattern.... to believe in the designer.  And am so very glad I did as this is probably one of the most flattering dresses I've ever made.
This pattern has been on my radar since 2016 when it was released.  The model is wearing one version on the cover, below, and Ottobre calls it Tropical Flowers Cross-front Jersey Dress from the 02/2016 issue.  My fabric is not jersey, but some sort of polyester 4-way stretch picked up at my only-open-once-a-month local textile outlet All About Fabrics.  This little dress uses minimal yardage.... maybe a little more than a yard.  I did not peg the skirt as per the pattern, but brought the side seams straight down from just below the hip.  Pleats, at both front shoulders and both bottom corners of the front bodice, create the lovely wrapped, draped effect.  Again, Ottobre has back neckline darts that give the back neckline a beautiful shape and fit.  Darts both front and back on the skirt.  No pockets.  I made size 36, graded to size 38 at the hips.
Loved this fabric the minute I saw it and purchased it in 2 colorways.  This one is my favorite.  Anyway, this morning was all about figuring out how to wear the dress without the faux wrap unwrapping, so to speak.... so in the photo below, you can see where I've safety-pinned the top closed at the top neckline overlap.  This is where photographs help so much as I had no idea there was this much 'pull' until I saw the photos and decided this was not acceptable.  So, let's try something else....
..... thought maybe putting a little rtw cami underneath and removing the safety pin might work..... and ..... it's quite clear to see the wrapped opening 'open'!  But not sure I like this 'look' either.  Seems kind of sloppy.
Soooooo.... let's try both the cami AND the safety pin pinned a little lower so there's no pulling.  Love it!  May go back in and make a little tack there, but for now the safety pin is working fine.
This dress has a nice silhouette for my body shape.  Having said that.... it is meant to be a mini mini-dress and fearing such I added 1" to the length, with a mere 5/8" hem and it's 'mini' enough for me.  I'm 5'7" tall.
No fitting modifications were made and it wears like a custom fit.  Interesting the pattern is meant for a woven or a knit.... with the instructions of course advising to accomodate the pattern for a zipper in a woven.  Pattern has you cut 2 back bodice pieces and 2 skirt back pieces regardless of fabric choice.  My knit has such a beautiful print I hated to break all that up with center back seams, so placed my pattern bodice and skirt pieces on the fold.  Super pleased!!  Also an interesting construction of the pattern included sewing 7 mm elastic within the seam that attaches the bodice and the skirt.  I used 1/4" elastic, as that seemed more sturdy and had no problems learning this new skill.  It gives the waistline a little more stability and holds everything together well.  My fabric was more on the thin side, than the thick side.  In fact, I was concerned it might be too thin and need a lining, but after all was done, think I'm okay.
Here you can see all the pleating and draping a little bit.  Put a LOT of thought in the fabric placement for the front pieces, and pleased with how that turned out.  Actually switched the wrapover piece to get that particular fabric pattern at the front.
Seams are serged....
.....and had a lot of fun loading my serger with all the colors of my dress!  Sometimes it is the little things, no?!
5/8" hem, serged raw edges first to give the knit some stability, turned up and zigzagged hemmed because did not want to take any chances on the twin-needle channeling.  Pleased with how the hem turned out all nice and even.... no waviness.  Experience really helps dealing with slippery-sliding material.
This will complete the Make a Garment a Month June's theme of 'Journey'.  There are no journeys nor vacations on the horizon, so I chose this little dress as if there were some sort of exotic trip in the future..... with the reality it will simply be added to the wardrobe.  And that's okay.
Suzi thought about joining me today, but then decided to bark, bark, bark at the back neighbors.  Up on our high deck, we have a sort of bird's-eye view of the surrounding land through the trees, and she was trying to be protective and let me know something was amiss.... but barking at the neighbors are not a good thing in my book!
Oh, hello..... I'm back now.  So funny all the drama that happens when one is trying to capture their new dress in photographs looking all calm, cool and collected!  Ha!
Happy Sewing All!!  :)


Anniversary Dress |
Modified Ottobre 02/2016 no. 10 Glorious with Burdastyle 12/2016 #112 sleeves

With longstanding roots in Alabama, and knowing our anniversary was to be spent in Florence, Alabama, this rayon challis was chosen for this special dress because the white flowers reminded me of open cotton bolls from lovely childhood memories of riding my horse around cotton fields enjoying 'Southern Snow'. 
What should have been a project of pure joy, was instead a project of pure pain and frustration.
A mash-up of Ottobre 02/2016.... 10 Glorious Shift Dress....
....that I've made before in linen and love to death.... I misread my own notes on the pattern and cut the back too narrow.  My first mistake.
Added bell sleeves from the Burda 12/2016 #112 Bell Sleeve Dress.  I did not add the lower 'bells'.
Photo credit:
The fabric frayed with every touch.  It was so sensitive, I could not even machine blind-hem stitch this dress and instead top-stitched the final hem as I was running out of time.  This dress was finished in February and I'm only now writing about it because I've not been sure if it would be a wearable garment.... or not.
Fitting issues abounded as for some reason this looked like a complete tent sack on me.... without this belt.   Totally did not get the armscye right when modifying Burda's sleeve pattern for the dress, but am trying to live with it.
So aggravated with the way construction was going, that I really thought this might be my first official wadder,  I used cheap Wal-Mart anti-static lining fabric for the full lining..... and found it was not anti-static.... at all.  Figures.
Even added 2 back vertical darts per Marjorie's suggestion and that helped a little, but not much.
My acceptance of this dress is all about the belt.  During one of the almost breaking down in tears while trying the dress on to realize how awful it looked on me fittings,  I grabbed a scrap of fabric and ruched it in my hands to see what a belt might do.  And I liked the look..... and it was the perfect belt size.  Literally a few minutes later I'd cut and sewn another same-size piece, sewn it right sides together leaving a small turning opening, turned and top-stitched closed, lightly pleated/ruched the fabric and top-stitched that down at the back where I also added 2 medium sized snaps and voila! A self-fabric ruched belt was born.
See that armscye?  It just isn't right but am hoping no one will notice but me.  It still feels odd too.
The dress looks fabulous with the Burda Faux Fur Jacket  it was made to accompany as an ensemble. 
Below, you can see I'm not wearing the belt and it just looks so 'full'.  Pattern includes in-seam pockets which is nice.
And the rest of the story is that we were so busy sightseeing on our anniversary day in Florence, Alabama.... we decided we'd rather continue in that vein, than rush back to our room at The Lodge to change into dressier clothes to make our dinner reservations at an upscale restaurant in town.   Later that evening, tired and in our sight-seeing clothes, we enjoyed a delicious dinner in The Lodge's restaurant.... and THAT was the perfect way to spend our special day. 
So this is the anniversary dress that was not worn on our anniversary and I'm finally coming to terms with its fit after all.

Happy Sewing Everyone!  :)


Ottobre 02/2016 no. 10 Glorious dress in linen red poppies

A new linen dress in red poppies.  A new favorite. 
A shift dress is not a silhouette I've ever chosen before or worn, but with their current popularity and our soaring hot temps, thought it'd be a good choice for summer made from pretty red poppy linen fabric purchased from Joann's last season.  Red seems to be a good color for me this year.
I made a size 38 with 3/8" seam allowances as per pattern instructions with a few exceptions. 
Took in 1/2" under arm grading to nothing @6" down.  My upper area does not 'fan' out as this is an adjustment I seem to almost always make.  I must be more straight from under the arm to above the waist.... well as taking in the center back.    I sewed a 7/8" seam there.   I must also have a narrow back too as this is another adjustment I seem to always need.  In this case, I was afraid it might make the dress 'cling' to my backside and/or be too tight there, but it fits fine.  Hemmed 1 1/4" as I wanted it more on the shorter side than the longer side.  All seams are serged.
Finding Ottobre patterns fit me well, I'm making it a point to purchase their women's issue through their Etsy shop when they come available.   These are published twice a year with the next issue coming out around August.  You can purchase back issues at their Etsy shop too.  This shift dress is from the Ottobre Spring/Summer 02/2016.  More from this issue can be seen online at Ottobre's website here..
I made the no. 10 Glorious linen dress with an invisible zipper in the back instead of the keyhole with button closure per the pattern.  Ottobre shows this pattern made multiple ways..... sleeveless with the keyhole button back closure, short sleeves with a zip, color-blocked short sleeves with a zip, and 3/4 sleeves with keyhole button back closure.  All pieces are interchangeable and as I wanted to practice more with putting in an invisible zip..... that's what I chose.  Actually one of the reasons I bumped this dress up the queue, was to have more practice putting in an invisible zipper before tackling the sheath dress made up in Carolyn's fabric.  I'm so nervous about that dress, it is paralyzing me!  I so need to get over it and get moving, right?! 
Thanks again ever so much to the Instagram ladies who helped me with the neckline problem!  I posted this photo below on IG to show both the looseness under the arm and the high neckline as I reached out for solutions to both problems.  I was too chicken unsure of my abilities to scoop out the neckline, so instead took a larger seam allowance of 5/8" instead of the already cut and prepped 3/8"....
...and this is what I got.  If I make this dress again I might fool around with the neckline then.  When I'm more sure of not messing anything up.
And be still my heart, but I put this invisible zipper in pretty darn perfectly this time!!!!  It only took me, oh maybe 7 tries, but who's counting!.... each time stitching closer and closer to the zipper until there is no gaping at all!  Yay!  I do not have an invisible zipper foot so this was true determination.  Now having said all this, and having spent an entire afternoon on this one zipper application..... I broke down and ordered an invisible zipper foot for my 21+ year old Bernina 1230.  So happy!  The next day the company notified me they were out of stock and it's backordered for at least a month.  Totally bummed but at least they are still making this foot.  My machine is so old, I was afraid it might be out of production, so was actually okay with the backorder.  They assured me the foot is still being made.  I can wait a month.
I'm not sure whose technique I ended up using to apply the facing to the center back, photo below.... maybe Nancy Zieman's?.... anyway.... love it.  It finished so pretty.  You sew a 1/4" seam at the center back, right sides together... first making sure the facing is shorter than the neckline.   Then sew the facing at the neckline and like magic, after it's graded, snipped and understitched.... it turns under like this.  No hand stitching.  Also, you can see because I sewed a 5/8" seam allowance on the facings instead of the prepped 3/8", my facing is a little narrower.  That's okay.  Even the faint waviness is okay as it sits all nice and neat when worn.  I finished the armholes with self-fabric bias. Also Ottobre usually puts a couple of neckline darts in the back and that is another nice feature of the neckline fitting well with no gaping.
I kid you not, as I was taking these photos on my front porch, a little hummingbird came by and hovered right in front of me totally confused!!  Guess he thought my pretty red poppies might hold lunch.  :)  Should also mention this pattern includes pockets.  Pockets are a good thing.  Pockets are always a good thing.
These red poppies make me feel 'joyful', so this also completes my Make a Garment a Month Challenge for Joyful June.
When temps soar over 100 degrees F in the South, we always reach for a rocking chair in front of a fan and drink sweet iced tea! :)
UPDATE 6.27.2016 - The next day I was able to snap a shot of the little hummingbird who liked my red poppies as she visited our red Canna Lillies.  :)
Female Ruby-throated Hummingbird
Happy Sewing Everyone!  :)