Showing posts with label Happy Homemade Sew Chic 20 Simple Everyday Designs by Yoshiko Tsukiori. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Happy Homemade Sew Chic 20 Simple Everyday Designs by Yoshiko Tsukiori. Show all posts

2.23.2018

Fitted Turtleneck x2 | Itch to Stitch Hepburn Turtleneck

As part of my Fall/Winter plans, I knew I wanted a form-fitting turtleneck that could layer well without adding bulk.  I know Spring is right around the corner, but am determined to complete some of my earlier wardrobe plans and am super happy with this one.  :)
It took a bit of searching to find a simple turtleneck with a figure hugging design... finally settling on the Itch to Stitch Hepburn Turtleneck.  Sue wore her Hepburn Turtleneck on her glorious travels to Hong Kong where you can see her turtleneck near the bottom of her post.  She writes that it's easy to layer, but also looks okay on its own.  That's how I feel too.
The Itch to Stitch Hepburn Turtleneck pattern in .pdf download costs $10.00 that is truly a bargain considering it is such a well-designed, basic piece that will probably be made in multiples to re-fresh each Fall/Winter season's wardrobe.  A keeper!  Anyway, to be honest with you it was hard to tell exactly how form-fitting this pattern was designed to be.....
.... until one sort of studies the line drawings.  Itch to Stitch also has the 'layer' feature on her .pdf patterns, so you can only print the sizes you need.  This is nice as it makes cutting/tracing/grading so much easier on the eyes.  Seam allowances are included, which is also really nice.  I cut a size 2 at bust and waist, grading to a size 4 at the hips.  Perfect!
This is the second version I've made and the only modification was to shorten the turtleneck height by 1".  I don't like to turn the turtleneck down, preferring to leave the neck open with a sort of slouchy look.
A few weeks ago I finished the white Hepburn Turtleneck, my first version, and have been wearing it under a rtw cardi, under the Lotta Jansdotter Pilvi Jacket with the Ottobre Design Woman black miniskirt, black tights and short boots.  Nothing feels bulky.  You can see in the photo below more how I wear the turtleneck neck 'up', and how high this comes on my neck worn this way.  Also, this cotton was a slubby, thinnish, oh-so-soft knit that once it was all made and ready to be worn, I realized it was quite see-through.  At first I felt sort of disappointed, but soon realized it makes a perfect undergarment.
Mine fits almost like a bodysuit type of figure-hugging feel.
This is exactly what I was looking for.  It should also be noted this is a super quick make.  I used my serger on everything except the hems.  Oh, and I did follow her instructions and serged invisible elastic to each shoulder seam to stabilize those.  I am so tired of my knit pieces stretching out and am curious to see how that holds up.
This beautiful, abstract, 4-way stretch soft rayon spandex knit came from Joann Fabric and looks like it is still available.  It was purchased Fall 2017 as I was planning my Fall/Winter wardrobe around all these luscious colors.
And today our temps were hitting 80*F (26*C)!  Certainly an early Spring day for South Carolina!  Our weather changes so frequently this time of year between Winter and Spring that I'm sure it will get lots of wear this season and still be in good shape for next Fall/Winter 2018.  Guess you could say I'm either so far behind.... or so far ahead?!  :)
It was also fun to wear the Yoshiko Tsukiori Happy Homemade Sew Chic jacket again as a nice color contrast against the turtleneck.  And this skirt is a highly modified Megan Nielsen Axel skirt that I've still not blogged about.  It's super comfortable and exactly the type of skirt I find comfortable to wear.
Got a couple of microsuede pieces in the works, so am sort of hoping we will have more of a 'cold' Spring this year.  Happy Sewing Everyone!  :)

9.29.2016

New Look 6192 skirt in Charcoal Gray

Doesn't everyone need a textured charcoal gray skirt in their wardrobe?  Absolutely!  And now I've got one too!
New Look 6192 has always been my go-to pattern for an elastic-waist skirt that doesn't scream "elastic-waist skirt" when worn and unfortunately looks like it is now out-of-print.  Can't get any easier than 1 pattern piece.... yes 1 (one!)!..... that serves as both front and back.  Seriously.  This skirt runs a little short and I've always made view B.  You can see #1 here, #2 here, #3 here, #4 here and #5 here.  Yep, I like this pattern juuuust a little, I'd say.  Guess this is skirt #6.
Made my usual size 10 in this pattern, with serged seams instead of a 5/8" seam allowance.  Pockets and lining were added to the last couple of versions and did the same here.  This one was also lengthened 2 1/4" to make it not quite so short.
 For some reason I've always used 1" elastic in the casing waistband, and it's always worked well.
 Back view shows a little elastic-waist look, but one I can live with.
Blind-stitch hemmed by machine a 1" hem.  That is a feature on my machine that took a little getting used to, but now it's my go-to way of hemming a garment like this.
 A classic A-line skirt that's easy to sew and easy to wear.
I am not purchasing any more ready-to-wear clothes, but am allowing myself to wear ready-to-wear clothes that I still own like this rusty orange top I am wearing today.  The cream jacket is Pattern N from Happy Homemade Sew Chic by Yoshiko Tsukiori.
Happy Sewing Everyone!  :)

6.17.2015

Mrs. Style Book 2015 top, Pattern p. 187

Mrs. Style Book 2015 P. 187 self-drafted top is complete!  I'm showing it worn here under the Yoshiko Tsukiori's Pattern N, 'Happy Homemade Sew Chic' cardi along with one of my newlook 6192 skirts.
As you may recall, I was recently gifted with this wonderful publication that is unavailable in the United States.  At least in any part of the U.S. that I am aware of, and so desperately wanting to make something from this book chose the cute yellow top on the cover.  All patterns are self-drafted with this particular top drafted from rectangles, felt this pattern might be manageable for my skill level.
More views of the same top shown on both younger and older models.  As I fall into the 'older' model category thought this would be appropriate for me, even though it has a younger vibe to it.  The older model shows it worn with a sweater and a cardi/jacket.
This is all I had to go on.  Everything is written in Japanese.
Loving math, I dug in with great joy to create my master pattern.  A math puzzle to me!  It wasn't until this moment I realized I had no metric system measurement tool other than my old wooden yardstick.  It worked fine.
Can't remember if I've shared my 'tracing paper' with you before..... but pellon 830 Easy Pattern Interfacing - Tracing Cloths is my go-to- tracing paper now.  Joann's is the only retailer that stocks this product locally, so the last time I was there I bought the whole bolt.  At $2.49 with a 50% off coupon the cost was quite reasonable.  I love this stuff!  You can write on it (though pencil does not erase well.... at all), cut it, iron it, and the big winner in my book is that it sort of 'sticks' to your fabric for cutting ease.  Even the slippy slidey, liquidy fabrics are easier to cut using this product as your master pattern as your fabric doesn't move around during the cutting out process.
Anyway, in the photo below I was beginning to form my pattern.  My new large-size cutting mat made this sooooo much easier as it is prepared for fabrics to sort of 'stick' to it and the grid made making rectangles easy.  I'd bought this mat for cutting fabrics for quilts, but it's cost-effective for garment sewing too.  The neckline was drawn free-hand and I was a little concerned it might be too little or too big, but figured I'd handle any needed alterations during the construction process.  These are both the front and the back pieces.  You trace the different necklines on your fabric for the front and back bodice, then cut 2 each of the middle and bottom ruffle.  The straight edge is placed on your fabric's fold.
Let's see how my pattern pieces compare to the line drawing.  Not bad.
Thought I'd put these two different top drawings up side by side to show what I used during the construction process.  The photo, bottom right, is of a very straight, billowing top.... not at all what I desired.... but the basic idea is the same as the top I wanted.  See how my top, photo left, sort of hangs down... not billows out straight.... due to the middle and bottom ruffle slanting upward, not cut straight.  Anyway, this diagram helped me think through the construction steps. 

And here's the finished top.  The soft, drapey gray knit was a perfect choice for the desired effect of this top.
In the photos above and below, I've paired it with the (now blogged!) 4-panel Alabama Chanin skirt, unembroidered with the exception of faux flat-felling all seams by hand-stitching with 3-strands of matching gray embroidery thread. 
Side views.  Hmmmm, these made me unsure if I thought this little top would complement my shape on its own.
The gray t-shirt jersey fabric 4-panel AC skirt, with the faux flat-fell hand-stitched seams, coupled with the gray knit fabric from my stash for this top completes my Make a Garment a Month Challenge for both May and June 2015.
Upon closer look you can see that I hand-stitched the neckline with the same 3-strand embroidery thread that I faux flat-felled the seams on the AC skirt, but in the herringbone stitch, as that is a 'stretch' stitch.  I tried to finish the neckline with a bias strip as per the pattern's line drawing, but that is a skill I just have not mastered on knit.  As a plus, this neckline finish helps the top coordinate with the AC skirt, and with the Tsukiori cardi/jacket whose neckline is finished the same.  And by the way, the size of the neckline turned out perfect! 
 Sort of scrunched here to look like the magazine photo.
What the top truly looks like, below.  The sleeve hems were finished by turning under 3/8" and topstitching with twin needle.  Even then it 'tunneled' a little, but felt I could live with it. 
 On the hanger.
Below, I am wearing the top with my off-white newlook 6192 skirt and added the Yoshiko Tsukiori cardi/jacket and love this look!  Wore it to church this day.  Hmmm, didn't know the top was pulled up in the back in the photo, below right.  That's one thing about this top's knit fabric, is that it sort of 'clings' to stuff.... inner jacket in the back here......
....and tops of skirts in the front, photo below.  Here is another newlook 6192 skirt with the same cardi/jacket.  What's a nice plus is that this color slips into my existing wardrobe well.
Thank you sweet friend for my wonderful gift!
I'll be writing the Alabama Chanin 4-panel skirt information soon.  Happy Sewing Everyone!
UPDATE 6.18.2015:  The Alabama Chanin 4-panel skirt information has been written here

5.24.2015

Day 24 / Me-Made-May 2015 / Sunday Leopard Linen

It's been a whirlwind weekend with a quick trip to the Lowcountry to handle some things for my husband's 82+ year old mother, but I've been able to stay steadfast in wearing handmade clothes each day.  We returned home last night.  For today's Sunday, going-to-church outfit, I'm wearing my leopard linen Burda Skirt made from a pattern in the BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook, with NEWLOOK 6108's sleeveless cowl top and the recently completed cardi Pattern N, from Yoshiko Tsukiori's book 'Happy Homemade Sew Chic'.  By the way, I understand Yoshiko Tsukiori recently published a new book 'Comfortable and Stylish Clothes' and can't wait to see it available in the U.S.!!!  If you want to see other new releases of Japanese Sewing Books, or reviews and information of books already out, Japanese Sewing Books is a fantastic resource site.
Before we left for the Lowcountry on Day 22 Me-Made-May 2015, I snapped this shot, photo below, of my new 'Ottobre meets Alabama Chanin' outfit. Hope to put more info up on the blog this week as this is an interesting asymmetrical draped blouse made of crepe de chine from the 2/2015 women's Ottobre magazine #10 Sculpture.  The skirt is a 4-panel skirt traced from Natalie Chanin's book 'Alabama Studio Sewing + Design'.  Original plans were to embroider the skirt with the Alabama Chanin Climbing Daisy stencil..... and I may still do that.  The skirt is so perfect with this little top, I'm worried the embroidery might detract or look odd?  Opinions?  Please?!!!  No photos for day 23 because it was a crazy day.... but I did wear handmade clothes!  UPDATE 5.28.2015Blog post on Ottobre No. 10 Sculpture
Do you see what I see in the photo below?!  Couldn't help but catch Buster asleep in the daylilies.  He did not even open his eyes as I snapped a couple of shots.  This is his favorite place to escape from the heat..... and I don't blame him!
Hope everyone is having a good day, wherever you may be!